I’ve always been an advocate for women’s body confidence. Too many girls and young women get sucked into eating disorders and other unhealthy practices striving to be what is believed to be “beautiful.” That’s why I also was a big fan of Crystal Renn, who I first saw in Glamour magazine. Renn is a successful “plus-sized” model who used to battle anorexia early in her career. She has been an even greater success after embracing a larger figure. She even published a book, Hungry, about her struggle with weight and the fashion industry.

I was shocked, however, when I read an article that Renn had lost a large amount of weight and was teetering on the edge of sickly-skinny again. Photos from a recent Fashion for Passion shoot seemed to be evidence of this change in her physique.

Then the truth came out. Renn’s photos had been dramatically altered to make her seem much skinnier. She had been airbrushed to look sizes smaller. In an interview with The Today Show’s Meredith Viera, Renn discussed her reaction to the photos.

“When I first saw the photos, I would have to say I was absolutely shocked…I’m a size 10, and that’s more like a size 2,” she said. She went on to say that in the fashion industry “plus” means “plus the norm.” Those who have seen Renn in person say she isn’t large at all. Although she has lost 25 pounds since beginning her career as a larger model, she attributes the difference to healthy exercise not purposeful weight loss.

I was even more shocked by the airbrushing when I found out what Fashion for Passion actually is. The nonprofit organization was founded in March of this year and is geared toward advocating for children’s arts and music programs across the U. S. Their Web site states that a few things the organization hopes to raise funds for are music lessons, art classes and supplies, creative spaces and arts summer camps. Mostly, it provides opportunities for children to grow with the arts.

Arts programs are meant to nurture and develop talent, but also are meant to instill students with confidence and self-esteem. I was never that into sports, and I found an amazing outlet in middle and high school by participating in show choir, dance and drama; I had fun and that feeling of being on stage is incomparable. In raising funds and awareness for these types of programs, the photos of Renn are essentially counterproductive to create confidence. They instead give the message that students still need to be a certain way instead of embracing who they truly are.

I commend Renn for her advocacy for a world where size isn’t an issue. It’s disheartening that Fashion for Passion allowed her photos to be edited in such a way. We can learn a thing or two from her about courage and confidence, a lesson that Fashion for Passion should heed.

Ashley Thill, Crystal Renn, fashion, Fashion for Passion, glamour, model, plus size, The Today Show Hide

If anyone else watches The Hills then you’ve definitely heard about this season’s drama with Kristin Cavallari and her crazy nights of partying. In the first episodes of the season, Cavallari’s castmates (Lo Bosworth, Audrina Patridge and Stephanie Pratt) accused her of too much drinking, way too many late nights and a possible cocaine addiction. They attributed Cavallari’s long nights with little rest and thinness to be outcomes of this use. Cavallari has since denied the rumors and the show has moved onto other drama.

But Cavallari is not the only young woman in Hollywood who is speculated to use cocaine to keep hunger at bay and her figure thin. Model Kate Moss, actress Mischa Barton and socialite Nicole Richie have all been accused of using the drug to achieve their scarily-skinny figures. The Hollywood starlet most associated, however, is Lindsay Lohan. The actress has been in-and-out of rehab for her drinking and many believe for her drug use as well. She was even photographed in a hotel with what appeared to be lines of cocaine. It seems that many of these offenses go unchecked by authorities.

But why do these young women turn to cocaine to help keep their hunger in check? The Cirque Lodge, a rehabilitation and treatment center in Sundance, Utah, has a portion of its Web site that discusses the use of cocaine for these reasons. (Lohan checked-in to Cirque Lodge in 2007 reportedly for alcohol abuse.)

According to the National Institutes of Health, cocaine stops dopamine from being transmitted in the brain which leads to a build up. Dopamine is a neurotransmitter often associated with feelings of euphoria, reward and enjoyment. This is the cause for the extreme “high” that many cocaine users experience. In the short-term, this can increase heart rate, blood pressure, body temperature and energy. These feelings while on a binge and afterward often lead to appetite suppression. This lack of desire to eat and the increase in metabolism results in the weight loss associated with cocaine use.

The site for Cirque Lodge notes that many young women in the fashion industry, who already may have eating disorders, turn to the drug to keep their weight down. The effects of cocaine often prove too strong and what was an eating disorder becomes a drug addiction.

What is scariest, however, is that our society’s obsession with being thin has exceeded the fashion industry while still being fueled by it. Young women who desire to look like models or movie stars may be looking at women who are cocaine addicts. The 24-hour news cycle in our society also makes this cocaine use no secret. Young women and girls may hear their favorite starlet uses cocaine to stay skinny and could turn to the drug in pursuit of this. It is more important now than ever to push for healthy body image for women especially when it seems eating disorders are heading to the extremes of addiction.

Ashley Thill, Audrina Patridge, Cirque Lodge, cocaine, fashion, hollywood, kate moss, Kristin Cavallari, Lindsay Lohan, Lo Bosworth, mischa barton, National Institutes of Health, nicole richie, Stephanie Pratt, the hills, thin Hide

I have been contributing to iatg for some time now, with fashion pieces as well as interesting features from UK news and current events. With the new look of the Web site, and Bellism-fever really taking pace here in the UK, I am now going to write a regular column about life, fashion, love, sex and all things fabulous. I really want to get a dialogue going with you guys, so make comments and ask questions. Bellists of the world unite!

In October, I had a meeting with a fashion photographer on the Isle of Wight. So one particularly unpleasant Thursday evening found me in the driving rain boarding a catamaran to be turbulently flung from city living to deepest rural England — complete with vintage butter-soft leather suitcase, crimson beret and thick houndstooth funnel-necked coat. The weather here really has been appalling; 70 mph winds, sideways rain that drenches you in seconds and leaves you battered, almost bruised with its ferocity. I plucked forth in my battered cowboy boots, a staple of my wardrobe for more years than I care to remember. They have seen me through three break-ups, two moves and numerous late-night beach barbeques, not to mention two resoles. With my winter investment coat I figured these old favourites would add a retro edge, and provide some much-needed protection.

The Scouting Book for Boys Premiere

Despite the weather, my meeting went well and I returned to civilization almost refreshed. (It must have been the country air!) The week to follow was yet another busy one, with a couple of article deadlines, an e-mail campaign and a number of interesting rendezvous. Wednesday saw me take to the rails again, this time to the premiere of The Scouting Book for Boys, a moving portrayal of friendship, coming of age and tragedy by hot new director, Tom Harper. I wore a fantastic vintage-style black and floral dress, opted for a beehive-inspired updo and super high heels. The film was spectacular, and it was incredibly interesting to chat with the actors, composer, director and writer about their journey. Being around a bunch of super-talents inspires you to get out there and live your dreams.

To be honest work dominated the rest of the month, deadlines and PR campaigns to organize and a fashion show to cover. For this I took along my darling photographer (R) for an evening of work and play. We dressed down, since I like to mix it up at fashion events. Rather than go for uber-glam, I often find the right balance of denim and sequins can do just as good a job as a full-on cocktail dress. The event showcased a number of new graduate designers, pitted against each other in the hope of winning support from more established local brands, as well as a much-needed cash injection. The event was spectacular and all was going swimmingly. I managed to network with some of Brighton’s finest fashionistas and PR gurus (it’s all about contacts, ladies!) as well as enjoy a couple complimentary cocktails to boot. However, it was far from my finest hour when I emerged from the ladies room to discover the winner had been announced, congratulatory murmurings were cascading around and my photographer was nowhere to be seen! Thinking on my feet, I grabbed my mobile phone from my vintage Dior clutch and snapped away, plucked the business card of the winner from her agent’s hand and headed out the door. Phew!

Always stay fabulous ladies!

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Summer, like winter, requires its own proper fashion and beauty etiquette. Whether you’re cruising the beach or headed poolside this season, it’s important to keep it effortless and fun. Say goodbye to your dowdy recession attire. Below are my tips to help make sure you’re a fashion “do” this season and not a fashion “don’t.”

Don’t over-do it with fake spray tans. Do opt for a more natural glow. Not a fan of the fake and bake? The key is finding the right self tanner designed to give you the perfect tan. Summer is the best time to give yourself a great tan but long exposure to the sun isn’t the healthiest. Look out for sunless tanning cream for a gorgeous and flattering glow without the damaging side effects of the sun.

Don’t be a victim of makeup overload. Do keep it simple. Keep makeup from melting off your skin by keeping it light. Foundation is out and tinted face moisturizer is in, at least for the next three months. Replace bright blush for bronzer and dark eye shadows for sheer colors. Try to avoid makeup at the beach and remember to choose bold, colored nail polish. For the best lip coverage, apply shimmery lip-gloss or clear lacquer—red lips are big summer don’t!

Don’t wear barely there clothing. Do sport breezy tops, summer skirts and lightweight dresses. Steer clear of tiny shorts and belly-bearing tops. Do incorporate denim and khaki shorts, summer skirts and baby doll tops. “Be mindful of the length of your hemline; select miniskirts and shorts that hit right below the widest part of your thigh for the most flattering silhouette,” suggests stylebakery.com. Another affordable alternative is the chic “Maxi,” a bohemian inspired dress that hits the floor. It can be worn to the beach or on the weekends. Take into account visible bra straps. Tank tops are nice and cool, but visible bra straps are tacky. Before heading out, make sure to do a bra strap check.

Don’t wear bathing suits in public places. Do wear a cover up or tunic over a bathing suit. Wearing swimsuits under clothes should be avoided in places other than the beach like restaurants or the mall. Keep in mind that swimsuits can be sexy but also fitted. Try to wear a full-coverage suite that fits properly. Beach cover-ups come in a variety of styles and colors, not to mention are a huge hit this season.

Don’t rock unflattering shoes or winter styles. Do wear flat sandals, espadrilles and dressy flip-flops. Store the Ugg boots and leave the ballet flats at home. In its place, sport glam beach to street sandals. Espadrilles and gladiator sandals look great with long skirts and sundresses. Socks with sandals are a huge fashion faux paux for summer (well, let’s just say year round).

Don’t wear excessive jewelry. Do look for key summer accessories. Limit big necklaces and flashy pieces. You can’t go wrong with a chic beach tote, a great beach bag or a straw fedora. No outfit is complete without a cool pair of aviators or retro chic sunglasses.

photo by nathan umstead

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Picture the scene… A mission called Bondolphi, south of Masvingo in southern Zim-babwe. An outdoor church shaded from the hot Zimbabwean sun by luscious fig trees. A group of women laugh and work alongside each other whilst their children play nearby.

When you envision an African factory, this probably isn’t the first image that springs to mind. Yet this is the realisation of a dream for Christine Garnett, Zimbabwean by birth, British by culture and Canadian by marriage. Christine set up her exclusive designer knitwear company, Flame Lily, in 1999 and, despite the atrocious economic situation in Zimbabwe, the company is going strong. The company produces exquisite jumpers, dresses, scarves and bedspreads, all from this idyllic outdoor setting. The church location is rented from a community of Nuns that have been running a clinic, school and orphanage in the area for over 50 years.

Visiting her team of over 80 workers every 4 months, Christine, a tribal member herself, says she finds it easy to fall into the cultural norms of the African tribes, and feels that these traditional dictum’s create an atmosphere of respect, love and productivity that you would be hard pushed to find anywhere else. The financial security that Flame Lily has created for its workers and their dependents (an average of 12 other people rely on the income of each worker) is something hard to find in a country ravaged by an 85% unemployment rate and inflation that has ascended into the tens of thousands.

Flame Lily’s amazing work ethic doesn’t stop at the treatment of their workers. Unlike many companies in this day and age, Flame Lily is entirely owned by its founder and designer, Christine. Christine and her team plant much of the organic cotton themselves, hand-dye it, and then knit everything completely by hand – their tools are knitting and sewing needles and nothing else, no machinery is used at all. The deliciously sumptuous and stylish knitwear is then imported to the UK where Flame Lily has an exclusive boutique in Oxfordshire, and has been shown in New York and Toronto.

There are so many wonderful and inspirational anecdotes attached to this fair trade, ethically sound, organic and culturally aware organisation. Following traditional Zimbabwean work practices, the local witch is summoned to sniff each batch of cotton for evil spirits, and Christine claims that this ritual helps as the workers visibly relax and become one with their craft. Incredibly, some men have taken on the role of child minder, in a real break from cultural norms, in order to allow their wives the chance to be more productive!

In these times of trouble, it is wonderful to meet someone so determined to produce beautiful high-end products whilst ensuring that the safety, happiness and financial security of her workers is always at the top of the agenda.

For more information visit www.flame-lily.com

africa, bondolphi, christine garnett, designer, fashion, flame lily, masvingo, orphanage, unemployment, zimbabwe Hide

Fashion has so many facets, from lingerie to ball gowns, high street to haute couture, and from design to styling. But it isn’t everyday that you can quiz those embroiled deep within the belly of the fashion beast – and that’s where I come in.

This week I had the pleasure of interviewing one of London’s most up-and-coming fashion stylists, Lucinda Dickens. Lucinda completed a Styling Course at the London College of Fashion, and went on to carve her career through hard work, perseverance, unpaid work experience, and then styling jobs with the likes of New Look and the Daily Mail newspaper.

These days, Lucinda is at the cutting edge of London fashion, working with some amazing designers and boasting some impressive celebrity clients.

“A lot of what I do is wardrobe styling and personal shopping,” says Dickens. Styling can sometimes including completing a wardrobe audit at a client’s home to give them a good idea of what colours and styles suit them before we hit the shops.”

Lucinda, however, remains a down-to-earth, quietly glamorous individual, with a genuine passion for what she does, which is tangible within minutes of meeting her.

A cursory glance at some of the glossy editorial images of past photo shoots styled by Lucinda, you can immediately recognize her signature style. Heavily influenced by Alexander McQueen and Matthew Williamson, Lucinda embodies the quintessentially English style, with a progressive twist.  Embracing everything from Victorian glamour to the English gent, her approach is sharp, contemporary and inspirational. Her daring mix of classic dandy style with aristocratic overtones, subtly mixed with market trader chic and just a suggestion of the Carnivalesque, has got London talking.

She works closely with Ian Cole, a fantastic, edgy and influential photographer, who has produced some really exciting images when working alongside her.

“Working with Ian is such an inspirational journey – I feel as though I am at my best when under the pressure of a photo shoot. Creating and capturing your vision is incredibly satisfying.”

The weeks of a busy fashion stylist are packed with exciting shoots, meetings and personal shopping consultations, but when Lucinda’s not working she spends her time scouring Portobello Market for vintage pieces, or watching old movies for inspiration.

I asked Lucinda what advice she could give to aspiring stylists.

“The most important thing is to be open-minded and be prepared for anything. Getting as much work experience as possible in order to build up your portfolio and resume is essential … and taking risks, being bold, assertive and, most of all, confident.”

Lucinda and Ian’s latest shoot is featured in Dapper Magazine online, it’s free to register, and so all you nascent stylists should get online and head to pages 46 – 47 for some inspiration!

alexander mcqueen, daily mail, dapper magazine, fashion, london, london college of fashion, lucinda dickens, matthew williamson, new look, stylist Hide

Coco Chanel once said, “Fashion is in the sky, in the street. Fashion has to do with ideas, the way we live, what is happening.” And if the ever chic Chanel was correct to observe that fashion is a reflection of the times, then designers are currently reflecting on one of the greatest recessions in recent history.

As consumers have tightened their purse strings in response to the economic downturn, the fashion industry has suffered. Recent runway shows have been downsized or canceled, and burgeoning designers face an uphill battle as retailers refuse to risk sales on new names, choosing to stick with reliable big shots like Armani and Dior. But even these fashion giants are struggling with dwindling returns.

So how is the fashion industry coping with these economic setbacks?

According to recent collections, it’s by going back to basics. As Chanel designer Karl Lagerfeld remarks, “Bling is over. Red carpet-y covered with rhinestones is out. I call it ‘the new modesty.’”

When people become more conservative in spending, they also become more conservative with their clothes. Instead of reaching for flashy, skintight outfits, people yearn for comfort clothing to get them through hard times. This accounts for the retail influx of baggy boyfriend jeans, cotton cardigans, and slouchy t-shirts. Stores tend to stock up on staples during tough economic times because those are the items that consumers will feel good about buying. Rather than disposable fashion, the vogue is now about versatile pieces that will last through the seasons.

Glamour’s Editor-in-Chief, Cindi Leive, agrees: “That old idea that used to exist in fashion – that collections are out so now I’ve got to get something new – doesn’t really exist right now.” Many spring and fall lines are filled with classic shapes in bright, saturated colors or feminine prints that don’t rely on the newest “it” item to look great. Designers are also adding more accessories like bags and chunky jewelry that can embellish existing wardrobes. The idea is to shop for basics in one’s own closet and only buy special, timeless pieces.

This works well for fashion houses like Chanel and YSL who are known for their classic designs, but what about those like Alexander McQueen, John Galliano, and Balenciaga who don’t fit that chic simplicity? These designers are going back to basics by returning to their fashion origins. In his most recent collection, McQueen revisited his theatrical roots with sculptural and avant-garde designs that are more fit for the stage than the streets. Galliano’s newest line followed his ethereal and dreamy vision. And Balenciaga designer Nicolas Ghesquiere played true to his house’s ultra-modern aesthetic by showing a collection full of futuristic shapes and fabrics.

Vogue recently declared it’s time to choose sides as designers battle the recession by stripping down to essentials or escaping with wild aplomb. But while it may seem that fashion is diverging, there is a core to stay true to oneself, whether that be sticking to basic jeans that are as comforting as they are comfortable, or unleashing one’s imagination with crazy colors and combinations. The sartorial philosophy for these spendthrift times seems to be an endorsement of personal style.

photo by gennie stafford

alexander mcqueen, armani, balenciaga, chanel, cindi leive, coco chanel, designer, dior, economy, fashion, fashion industry, glamour, john galliano, karl lagerfeld, nicolas ghesquiere, recession, vogue, YSL Hide

When it comes to dressing for an interview, professional attire is often equated with the typical business suit. Depending on the job you’re applying for, however, an appropriate interview outfit doesn’t need to be that basic. In our current economic state, first impressions are everything and letting your clothes speak for your capabilities may help you stand out from competitors. Here are some ideas on how to dress appropriately to land the job:

Dress Code: Creative
Job: A fun atmosphere where creativity and professionalism collide. Examples include an art gallery, museum, graphics department or architecture firm.
What to Wear:
•    Something professional but relaxed, with a pop of color and without too much clutter. A couple of colorful accessories are a great addition — just don’t go overboard.
•    A vivid blazer over a white dress (hitting at the knee), subtle pumps and an oversized bag.
•    A statement jacket, a pair of wide-leg trousers and a solid-colored feminine blouse.

Dress Code: All Business
Job: A highly professional atmosphere found at big corporations, marketing or law firms.
What to Wear:
•    A mismatched suit comprised of a brightly colored blazer and white blouse atop a neutral pair of trousers.
•    A skirt suit with a tailored jacket and pencil skirt, landing at the knee. Look for skirt suits with modern details like covered buttons or a retro collar.
•    An A-line dress that hits at or below the knee topped with a long coat (slightly shorter than the dress), paired with medium height pumps.

The Do’s and Don’ts
Whether you’re going for a strictly business or creative look, some general rules to follow:

•    Always wear a jacket
•    Keep the heels medium in height or lower
•    Make sure skirts or dresses hit at or below the knee
•    Carry a handbag that can double as a briefcase

Items you should definitely steer clear of sporting to any interview:

•    Flip-flops
•    Anything strapless
•    Denim
•    Deep Cleavage
•    Miniskirts
•    Sheer anything
•    Something wrinkled
•    A blouse that caps between the buttons
•    Strong perfume or heavy makeup
•    Evening shoes (open-toed, high heeled or strappy)

Build an Interview Wardrobe
Let’s face it — none of us get hired the first time around and several companies may require multiple interviews. In these situations, one interview outfit simply won’t do. To get the most bang for your buck, invest in items you can mix and match for a different look:

•    A black shift dress (can be worn with a blazer, long coat or sweater)
•    A pencil skirt in a neutral color and one in a fun print
•    A blazer in a basic color and one in a bright color
•    A pair of neutral-colored, wide leg trousers (black, navy or tan)

These items will provide endless combinations that can be worn even after you land that dream job!

photo by dorkas photos

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Fashion Diva: Elise L.
Hometown: Los Altos, CA
Fashion Icon: Anne Hathaway
The Look: The Young Professional

Her Words: “I work at a bank so I have to dress conservatively. But I like to keep my business young by adding something funky like big jewelry or fun heels.”

Our Words: Who says that dress codes have to be boring and professional has to be stuffy? This diva proves them wrong with volume and patterns that punch up her monochromatic style. We particularly love the bold zebra-print cuff and the classic pinstripes in a modern cigarette cut. Her look is business with a twist, and the way the modern working girl should be dressing.

The Breakdown
Top: Club Monaco
Pants: Club Monaco
Shoes: J. Crew
Cuff: J. Crew

anne hathaway, clothes, club monaco, fashion, fashion corner, j. crew, style Hide

The times they are a changin’. With job losses and never-ending penny pinching, revamping your wardrobe for spring may be the least of your worries. No need to be discouraged, recessionistas! Pack away those sweaters and shed those layers. Here are my tips on how to create a recession-proof wardrobe.

Conduct a Closet Inventory
Instead of splurging on new spring pieces at full retail price, dig through your closet. It’s completely fine for items from past seasons to be reused. Dust off your old spring wardrobe and think about new pieces you might want to add. It’s all about styling with color!

Make a Spring Essential Checklist
Spring is all about a fresh start. Must haves for this season include: short-sleeved cardigans in bright hues, a lightweight boyfriend blazer and the classic trench. You can’t go wrong with monochromatic, metallic and animal prints. Remember magenta and yellow are bold colors that flatter any skin tone. No closet is complete without lightweight scarves and leggings in bright colors. Make sure to put an emphasis on details such as ruffles, bows, and floral prints.

Invest in Timeless Pieces
Having long-lasting clothing is key. When you find a piece you like, decide if it’s worth the investment. Michele Parsons of Liz Claiborne says, “The thing about investing in something is that you have to believe it fits and flatters you. You have to think about whether you are going to be able to wear it with lots of different things.” Indeed, versatility is value. Know what key pieces to invest in. The dress is an example of a trend quickly becoming a wardrobe staple. Be sure to stick to plain textures and classic colors. Spending the bulk of your fashion funds on timeless pieces will become the backbone of your wardrobe for years to come.

Be a Budget Babe
Ever-changing trends can get pricey. Discount retailers provide simple and affordable alternatives. You can find designer Alexander McQueen at Target and Simply Vera by Vera Wang at Kohls. Other inexpensive retailers such as H&M, Forever 21 and Wet Seal always stock trendy and fun apparel. No spring ensemble is complete without graphic inspired tops and pieces with interesting details. For the risk takers, you might want to try a trendy romper/short suit—guaranteed to make you stand out. Blake Lively and Whitney Port are fans.

Accessorize
Handbags, jewelry and other accessories are cheap ways to add pizazz to a spring wardrobe. Look out for bangles, which are making a huge comeback this year. Still have those gladiator sandals from last year? Bring them out! Not only are they comfy and stylish but also go great with everything.

Spicing up your spring wardrobe doesn’t have to cost a fortune. Have fun and don’t be afraid to play around with what you already have. Swap clothes with friends or turn old clothes into cash. It’s nice to see old stuff get a second chance. Visit a vintage store or recycle your wardrobe—your trash could be someone else’s pure gold.

photo by bete noir

accessories, alexander mcqueen, blake lively, closet, fashion, forever 21, H&M, handbag, jewelry, kohls, liz claiborne, michele parsons, recession, simply vera, target, vera wang, wardrobe, wet seal, whitney port Hide