Picture the scene… A mission called Bondolphi, south of Masvingo in southern Zim-babwe. An outdoor church shaded from the hot Zimbabwean sun by luscious fig trees. A group of women laugh and work alongside each other whilst their children play nearby.

When you envision an African factory, this probably isn’t the first image that springs to mind. Yet this is the realisation of a dream for Christine Garnett, Zimbabwean by birth, British by culture and Canadian by marriage. Christine set up her exclusive designer knitwear company, Flame Lily, in 1999 and, despite the atrocious economic situation in Zimbabwe, the company is going strong. The company produces exquisite jumpers, dresses, scarves and bedspreads, all from this idyllic outdoor setting. The church location is rented from a community of Nuns that have been running a clinic, school and orphanage in the area for over 50 years.

Visiting her team of over 80 workers every 4 months, Christine, a tribal member herself, says she finds it easy to fall into the cultural norms of the African tribes, and feels that these traditional dictum’s create an atmosphere of respect, love and productivity that you would be hard pushed to find anywhere else. The financial security that Flame Lily has created for its workers and their dependents (an average of 12 other people rely on the income of each worker) is something hard to find in a country ravaged by an 85% unemployment rate and inflation that has ascended into the tens of thousands.

Flame Lily’s amazing work ethic doesn’t stop at the treatment of their workers. Unlike many companies in this day and age, Flame Lily is entirely owned by its founder and designer, Christine. Christine and her team plant much of the organic cotton themselves, hand-dye it, and then knit everything completely by hand – their tools are knitting and sewing needles and nothing else, no machinery is used at all. The deliciously sumptuous and stylish knitwear is then imported to the UK where Flame Lily has an exclusive boutique in Oxfordshire, and has been shown in New York and Toronto.

There are so many wonderful and inspirational anecdotes attached to this fair trade, ethically sound, organic and culturally aware organisation. Following traditional Zimbabwean work practices, the local witch is summoned to sniff each batch of cotton for evil spirits, and Christine claims that this ritual helps as the workers visibly relax and become one with their craft. Incredibly, some men have taken on the role of child minder, in a real break from cultural norms, in order to allow their wives the chance to be more productive!

In these times of trouble, it is wonderful to meet someone so determined to produce beautiful high-end products whilst ensuring that the safety, happiness and financial security of her workers is always at the top of the agenda.

For more information visit www.flame-lily.com

africa, bondolphi, christine garnett, designer, fashion, flame lily, masvingo, orphanage, unemployment, zimbabwe Hide

Coco Chanel once said, “Fashion is in the sky, in the street. Fashion has to do with ideas, the way we live, what is happening.” And if the ever chic Chanel was correct to observe that fashion is a reflection of the times, then designers are currently reflecting on one of the greatest recessions in recent history.

As consumers have tightened their purse strings in response to the economic downturn, the fashion industry has suffered. Recent runway shows have been downsized or canceled, and burgeoning designers face an uphill battle as retailers refuse to risk sales on new names, choosing to stick with reliable big shots like Armani and Dior. But even these fashion giants are struggling with dwindling returns.

So how is the fashion industry coping with these economic setbacks?

According to recent collections, it’s by going back to basics. As Chanel designer Karl Lagerfeld remarks, “Bling is over. Red carpet-y covered with rhinestones is out. I call it ‘the new modesty.’”

When people become more conservative in spending, they also become more conservative with their clothes. Instead of reaching for flashy, skintight outfits, people yearn for comfort clothing to get them through hard times. This accounts for the retail influx of baggy boyfriend jeans, cotton cardigans, and slouchy t-shirts. Stores tend to stock up on staples during tough economic times because those are the items that consumers will feel good about buying. Rather than disposable fashion, the vogue is now about versatile pieces that will last through the seasons.

Glamour’s Editor-in-Chief, Cindi Leive, agrees: “That old idea that used to exist in fashion – that collections are out so now I’ve got to get something new – doesn’t really exist right now.” Many spring and fall lines are filled with classic shapes in bright, saturated colors or feminine prints that don’t rely on the newest “it” item to look great. Designers are also adding more accessories like bags and chunky jewelry that can embellish existing wardrobes. The idea is to shop for basics in one’s own closet and only buy special, timeless pieces.

This works well for fashion houses like Chanel and YSL who are known for their classic designs, but what about those like Alexander McQueen, John Galliano, and Balenciaga who don’t fit that chic simplicity? These designers are going back to basics by returning to their fashion origins. In his most recent collection, McQueen revisited his theatrical roots with sculptural and avant-garde designs that are more fit for the stage than the streets. Galliano’s newest line followed his ethereal and dreamy vision. And Balenciaga designer Nicolas Ghesquiere played true to his house’s ultra-modern aesthetic by showing a collection full of futuristic shapes and fabrics.

Vogue recently declared it’s time to choose sides as designers battle the recession by stripping down to essentials or escaping with wild aplomb. But while it may seem that fashion is diverging, there is a core to stay true to oneself, whether that be sticking to basic jeans that are as comforting as they are comfortable, or unleashing one’s imagination with crazy colors and combinations. The sartorial philosophy for these spendthrift times seems to be an endorsement of personal style.

photo by gennie stafford

alexander mcqueen, armani, balenciaga, chanel, cindi leive, coco chanel, designer, dior, economy, fashion, fashion industry, glamour, john galliano, karl lagerfeld, nicolas ghesquiere, recession, vogue, YSL Hide

I’m a firm believer in shopping alone. There’s a sense of freedom and control that permeates when I peruse the aisles of my favorite boutique. But there comes a time when I need an outside opinion on what’s cool and stylish. Instead of turning to a friend, I go to my mother for her point of view, and I’m not alone. More and more, young women are shopping with their moms. These young women are the new luxury lovers and the ultimate consumers of the twenty-first century. They’re being called “the millennials,” and they’re responsible for shaping contemporary style and design.

The Millennials are the generation born between 1980 and 2000, and they tend to have a more optimistic attitude toward high-end, high-quality goods and products. These offspring of the baby-boomers want it all, and they want it now. This cohort feels entitled to the luxurious material goods that middle class society has fostered. Those who aren’t born into wealth are willing to work hard to sport high end fashion, luxury accessories and tricked out cars.

The relationship between millennials and boomers is a unique one. According to the marketing company Resource Interactive, members of the millennial generation are closer to their parents than are members of any previous generation. It’s not uncommon for millennials to text their parents, vacation together, and inform each other on what to buy. I know I’m not alone when I say that I send my mom pictures via cell phone just to get her opinion on an outfit. Millennials confide in their parents and vice versa.

Advertisers have caught on to the fact that our generation utilizes technology to become knowledgeable consumers, and ceaselessly bombard us, influencing our spending habits. They’re figuring out ways to influence not only the shopper, but the credit-card holder (aka the parental units) as well.

Designers and luxury executives around the world are doing whatever they can to appeal to this generation and their parents. Next time you see your friend texting on their Blackberry, sporting some Ray Ban shades and the new Juicy sweat suit, you might not only question their taste, but also if it’s their bff they’re texting, or if they’re asking their parents for a money transfer to their MasterCard.

consumer, designer, gen y, luxury, mastercard, millennials, shopping Hide