Finicky Fair Trade
by Laura Platino

Whether you get your daily dose of caffeine from the independent coffee shop near your house, the local Starbucks or even McDonald’s — they are likely touting their social consciousness by offering a blend of coffee stamped with the universal, fair trade seal of approval. Fairtrade is a certification program developed by the Fairtrade Labeling Organization (FLO) to make consumers aware of the social, economical and environmental well-being of coffee bean farms around the world. Support for the labeling system comes from customers who routinely put aside their usual preferences for roast and flavor by requesting a Fairtrade certified brew.

Fair trade gives consumers an opportunity to feel good about what they purchase by guaranteeing that the coffee bean farms — and ones raising cotton, cocoa and wine currently jumping on the bandwagon — are not only getting a decent price for their beans, but also are adhering to strict regulations that protect laborers, families and even the environment.

The term Fair Trade defines the overall movement of ethical trading and is suffering a bit in the grand scheme of things. In order to be recognized as Fairtrade by FLO, farms must pay hefty yearly fees and constantly work under the governance of the system. With the demand for Fairtrade products on the rise, being a part of the club has its benefits but there are coffee roasters out there unable to expense membership to the FLO or are dependent on employee labor, but still adhering to the ideals of Fairtrade certification.

The situation currently unfolding with Fair Trade is reminiscent of what happened with the Organic movement — many small, local farms forgo the USDA Certified Organic label mainly because of the cost and the bureaucratic structure of the organization, but are indeed 100% organic. In Third World countries, most farms don’t try to go organic but simply lack the funds to use expensive pesticides. In the United States, many small family farms grow purely chemical-free produce but recognize the injustice of the system and choose to foster relationships with farmers’ markets and restaurants that simply trust their harvest.

Fairtrade has become a marketing tool — another absolution in the eyes of a society where consumers strive for humanitarian status while still enjoying a $4 latte. Sure Fair Trade is humanitarian in theory, but the practice of it has gone slightly corporate, a little bit corrupt and has tricked consumers into believing if it doesn’t don a swirly blue and yellow label, it is unqualified for the FLO.

The bottom line: just because one roast of coffee or brand of wine or chocolate bar displays a Fairtrade symbol doesn’t necessarily mean the other options aren’t comparable. At your favorite coffee shop, just try asking. Many owners and employees are well versed in where their beans come from and might let you in on the secret that the African blend you prefer over the Guatemalan is indeed Fairtrade — despite how naked it looks without the FLO stamp of approval.

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